All things cheese in France


Tuesday, 5 April 2011

Cow's Milk - Bête noire ?

At the fromagerie, we often have people say they can't eat cheese because they are lactose intolerant. These same people invariably tell me that they can eat those made from goat's or sheep's milk.  Really? And why would that be true?  All milks have lactose, but most of the lactose in cheese is either drained away with the whey or converted to lactic acid during the aging process leaving little or no lactose. So how could this be true and what is the issue here? Is there any science to back this up? Is cow's milk harder on the body than goat's or sheep's milk?

Lactose intolerance is very common in adults and not dangerous, but milk allergies are more serious and broad reaching. Understanding the root cause of the problem is necessary because while symptoms associated with lactose intolerance are similar to those of dairy allergies; it is how & to what the body reacts that is different.  It is important to note that a person can be lactose intolerant and also have sensitivity to dairy proteins, i.e., be allergic, but these two maladies are not necessarily coexistent. In the case of lactose intolerance it is the milk sugars (lactose) that cause the hypersensitivity whereas in a milk allergies, it is the milk proteins.

There are different make ups of milk proteins (casein) in all of the milk types. It is the major protein in cow's milk alpha-s1-casein protein, not present in sheep or goat milk, which is to blame for the adverse reaction. The body's immune system attacks them as if they were an invader rather than breaking them down. Since these milk proteins are present in any related milk product, anyone with an allergy to the proteins is susceptible to varying degrees of allergic reaction. And as milk proteins are the main building block of any cheese, for someone with a milk allergy, eating cheese is pretty much impossible.

Those with lactose intolerance have a different problem.  Lactose intolerant people cannot digest lactose (milk sugars) which is different than milk proteins. The body is incapable of metabolizing lactose because of a lack of the enzyme lactase in the small intestines (known as lactase deficiency).  As enzymes help the body absorb foods, not having enough lactase means these sugars stay intact and the intestinal bacteria have a feeding frenzy. So when products containing high levels of lactose are ingested, gas is produced in the intestines and violà, discomfort ensues. 

According to Wikipedia, milk from buffalo has 4.86% lactose, yak 4.93%, unprocessed cow milk 4.7%, goat milk 4.7% and sheep milk 4.6%. So when someone says they are lactose intolerant to cow's milk, the same intolerance to sheep and goat's milk should exist, right?  Well, while these milks contain the same level of lactose, it is thought that goat & sheep milk are more easily digested than cow's milk because they do not contain the same concentrations of casein (milk proteins). Therefore, there is a strong possibility that folks who can drink non-cow milks with no problem, in reality have an allergy as opposed to being lactose intolerant. 

So what about cheese? Well, in the case of cheese, it comes down to how much actual lactose is still present in the finished product. Because lactose is a water-soluble molecule, higher fat percentages, fermentation, the curdling process and aging have an impact on the amount of lactose that remains in a cheese product.  To begin with, in the early hours of the life of a traditionally produced cheese, most of the lactose present in any milk passes into the whey, which is drained off.  The bit that remains in the cheese curd is converted into lactic acid during the ripening process and disperses as the water content evaporates and the milk proteins become more concentrated. 

The longer the aging, the less lactose is present in the curd.  Not true of milk proteins obviously as the pate is made is primarily made up of these proteins.  Traditional, aged hard cheeses have only about 10% of the lactose that is found in the original whole milk.  For instance, a 24 month old Emmental or Comté, both cow's milk cheeses, have practically no lactose remaining.  So theoretically, even if one is lactose intolerant, one will have problems with fresh and minimally aged cow milk cheese like camembert but not have problems eating long aged cow's milk cheeses.

So why is it that these folks seem to be able to deal with the other milk types?  In buffalo, goat & sheep milk cheeses; the basic milks have smaller fat globules to begin with, which do not clump together in the same was as in cow's milk, thus making the milk naturally homogenized and in general produce a more dense cheese. Assuming you do not have a major protein related allergy, these two factors in conjunction contribute to a higher digestibility of these milks and their respective cheeses. 
None of this is 100% applicable to commercial cheese, i.e., those manufactured by modern processes.  Here these processes generally do not have the same lactose reducing properties, in part due to the elimination of so called 'good bacteria' during the milk pasteurization process and/or the length of aging. 

Another culprit which might be part of this digestive problem can be found in an additive, Lysozyme (additive E1105). The additive is an anti-microbial enzyme which is extracted from fresh chicken egg white and is used for its antibacterial properties primarily in the manufacture of industrial cheeses.  Although it is not always the case, people allergic to eggs (different than dairy) may also be allergic to lysozyme; therefore they often present the same symptoms as someone with a milk allergy. So the rule of thumb for people with egg white allergies might be to avoid commercially made cheeses all together.  Not to fear however, because the use of lysozyme is not allowed in the production of French AOC cheeses (interestingly most being made from raw milk). 

With all this information, it would seem that people with lactose intolerance should be able to eat any, and I would say any traditionally made, milk type cheeses that have been long-aged. No scientific tests have been done to prove this that I can find, so I always try to enlist willing subjects to try a beautiful 24 month old Comté or Beaufort to see if what happens.  If they still report having a problem, then in my opinion, they are more likely to have a milk allergy than being lactose intolerant.

Wednesday, 23 February 2011

Comté - an update

In December, David Lebovitz wrote two posts about his visit to two local Jura Mountain fruitiéres to see how this fabulous mountain cheese is made - complete with lots of photos and his ever amusing recounting of events as they occurred. 

Sadly somehow I forgot to make the post. They are very well worth reading especially if you are nowhere near the French Jura Mountains! One of them is called Comté Cheese Making and the other is called Comté Cheese Ripening and Tasting. And for more information, see their very impressive website with some hilarious videos:  Le Comté - nous apprends à savourer le temps...

Tuesday, 22 February 2011

le Salon de l'Agriculture Paris 2011

I have issues with crowds. Too much humanity in any one place at any one time and in five seconds flat, I go crazy! So I know better! And yet, just like the proverbial salmon who somehow swims up stream, I find myself every year smack in the middle of what is undoubtedly, the mother of all crowds – the one at the Salon de l’Agriculture, staged in Paris every year in February. 

I must be mad! For one thing, the Salon starts during the second week of spring break when all good mamans parisiennes ou banlieusardes (ou papas for that matter) are desperate to entertain their children. So for less than a 10er for each of their little darlings, they can not only keep les petits and not so petits out of trouble for an entire day but educate them about their genetic connection to la  belle France at the same time! Second, this is France and according to Anthelme Brillat-Savarin - “The destiny of nations depends on the way they eat” - so food, specifically the newly crowned UNESCO World Heritage French Food and the agriculture that supports it, is an integral part of the identity and culture of les Frenchies. Third, NO French person worth his or her Paraboots, especially city dwellers, would be caught dead without a recent anecdote about how he or she regularly connects with la France profounde, hence in the midst of grey depressing winter, we (I included) dutifully flock in the 100’s of thousands to the penultimate expression of all things French / Food – the expo designed to show off our farms, the farmers, their animals, products and way of life.  

The Paris Exposition at Porte de Versailles is an immense site. 226,000 square meters (that’s 2,433,000 square feet!) of floor space; 8 pavilions; 1,000 exhibitors and 650,000 people cram into and outside of it. No matter what hour or what day of the nine this Salon runs, there are seemingly a gazillion children of all ages climbing all over each other trying to get in touch with the land. You cannot image it unless you have been there. Pure mayhem, it is OTT; hors contrôle! And for some reason, I am always there when staunch farm supporter and past president, Jacques Chirac (and the 100 or so news crew engulfing him) makes his way through the main hall, petting the animals, chatting knowingly with the farmers and munching the winning regional delicacies, with his hands no less! The people love him because, unlike the incumbent, being from Corrèze, Chirac definitely knows his cows from his cheeses!  

All that being said, I love it. Imagine, bulls the size of small cars; pigs the size of a pony with even more fur; doe-eyed merino and cashmere goats right there in touching distance! Behold everywhere cute baby everythings, except of course, those in strollers being pushed by their parents through la foule (mob to you) either into you or over your feet. For us city dwellers enamoured with country life, it is a bonanza, a must see and do, even if you are crowd challenged! So to brave this crowd from hell there have to be rewards! Products rarely seen off the farm like cheeses, an example would be that brought by a single producer, the Coup de Corne, made at the Ferme de Cabriole in Saint-Félix de Lauragais (east if Toulouse). It is a raw cow’s milk cheese made of milk from the beautiful Brune race of cows which produce milk super high in matiere gras that makes the cheese silky and unctuous like a triple cream but isn’t! It is also rumoured to be used in my personal favourite - Epoisse! Or imagine a 24 month Ossau Iraty rarely seen outside of la Pays Basque, nutty, crunchy and expensive but worth every centimes. And a plethora of foie gras, saucissons and charcuteries, or weird fruits like the tiny but oh so delicious pineapples from Martinique, all of which you can buy and gorge on later in the comfort of your own apartment. 

The Salon offers lots of other things to do too than seeking a centimetre of fresh air. The most interesting for me, besides the animals and rare products of course, is the the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France Fromager competiton (MOF). Only the best of the best and the hardiest of French cheesemongers, who compete over several months, win this prestigious title, which sets them apart and if not famous, then part of a very rare fraternity. Here they produce their piece de resistance of cut and presented cheeses. The chosen finalists go on to the last test in March, a blind tasting, where they have to identify a series of 30 or so cheeses – and believe me these contestants are impressive, as this test is like the one the sommelier go through for the World's Best Sommelier Competition. 

So after a day of fabulous farmers, mind blowing animals, goodies galore and crushing crowds, I head home with my clutch of brochures and food souvenirs to soak my feet and start to forget about how many times I had to control myself from hyperventilating and the desire to rampage through the hordes, to seek calm until next year… 

Wednesday, 9 February 2011

Raw Milk Cheeses - safe or not?

The recent article in the NY Times entitled 'Raw Milk Cheesemakers Fret Over Possible New Rules' raises this ongoing battle between raw versus pasteurized milk products. once again. Raw milk cheeses have been around since the beginnings of time so what are the real reasons they are in danger of being outlawed? Enough with all the hyperbole, big industry influences and misleading claims, it is high time some real science and impartial research be done on raw milk cheeses!

Modern societies create their own environments and constraints, which in turn create their own need for specialized regulation for large populations. A one-size fits all rule, such as the 60 day aging rule in the US (fallacious from the start) is patently not appropriate. Pasturization not only does not eliminate the problem. In fact, pasturized cheeses have a pretty bad track record in this arena, both in the US and in France. The needs of an industrial cheese producer or any edible product for that matter, versus a small farm producer are different. What is not different is hygiene, both from the milk source, during the making, while being transported, stored and ultimately handled. At each point, there is the potential risk of contamination. and each present their own specific issues and varying levels of potential. Therefore, each point of weakness must be measured for its possibility to contaminate; considered fairly

One must also take into account the effects of the current anti-germ culture, such as the one in the US, where it seems all germs are bad and must be eradicated.  Is this practice of sanitizing everything, not in fact exacerbating the problem by distorting nature’s ability to balance good versus bad? One must accept that risk is inherent in life. To that end, each of us is responsible for determining how much exposure we are prepared to take, as well as what role our governments should take to mitigate risks for its people. But where is the balance between risk and profit? Where is rational, nonbiased research and debate about this issue? Now more than ever, we have the capability to do the science and debate the debate. It is time, in my opinion to do so.

Note Bene:  There is a recent video entitled `Cheese and Microbes` over on the Vermont Institute of Artisan Cheeses site worth taking a look at on the subject at hand.

Monday, 31 January 2011

More Comté Joy and La Percée du Vin Jaune

For you fans of Comté, a great pairing is always the wine that comes from the same region the cheese is made - the Jura. The marriage of Comté and le Vin jaune (yellow wine) is the penultimate match. Certain aromas like dried citrus fruits, walnuts and curry, found in the wine are similar to those in a good vieux (aged) Comté, which explains the amazing accord between the two. It is quite astounding as a matter of fact! 

That being said, it is pretty hard to find outside of the area, but there is a festival held each year in February called La Percée du Vin Jaune (The Opening of the Yellow Wine) that gives people the opportunity to experience the newly released vintage in situ. The crucial piece of information about this rare wine is that legal requirements for aging mean that the vintage being sampled will be from the autumn harvest seven years earlier. Tasting sessions take place in a different regional village each year and have attracted over 30,000 visitors to imbibe this gem.

So what is this wine le Vin Jaune ?  It is a white wine produced in Eastern France, specifically the Jura.  It is similar to dry fino or Amontillado sherry but it isn't a fortified wine like sherry.  It is made from a late harvest Savagnin grape which grows in the area. The wine gets its character from being matured in barrels under a film of yeast, known as the voile, (the veil) which develops on the wine's surface. This is sort of like the "flor" in Sherry production, and takes between two to three years to develop. The characteristic yellow colour and nutty flavours of the wine develop as it oxidizes and ages in the barrel. Some of the most premium examples coming from the marl based vineyards in the Château-Chalon AOC. In other French wine regions, notably Gaillac, vintners have been experimenting with similar style wines made from Chardonnay and other local grape varieties using cultured yeast.

The Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) regions permitted to produce vin jaune include Château-Chalon AOC, Arbois Vin Jaune AOC, Cotes du Jura vin Jaune AOC and Vin Jaune de L'Etoile.  Some adventurous winemakers in Gaillac have produced the vin de voile wine, which is similar in style but made mainly from Chardonnay grapes and cultured yeast. 

Other pairings suggested are:

Whites "floral" wines:  These work especially well with vieux Comté but also with the more lactic based younger ones highlighting their butter, caramel aromas.

Red wines:  Vieux Comté pairs very well with red wines of the Jura called the Rubis du Jura which are lighter in structure with a high degree of finesse.

Sparkling wines: A grand harmony is created between crumbly texture and mellow flavours of Comté and the Crémant du Jura (sparkling wines of the Jura), which tend towards the sweeter side of sparkling wines.

Source:  http://www.jura-vins.com/vins-jaunes-jura.htm 

Casse-croûte de copains aux morilles et Comté

8 large slices of pain de campagne (Polaine for instance)
100 g of dried morels
250 g de Comté grated
5 cl de Vin Jaune
25 cl cream
40 g de butter
1 shallot, chopped fine
Salt, pepper & some branches of chives


Soak the dried morels (or other dried mushrooms) half an hour in hot water. Cut each of them in half lengthwise to clean them. Drain well. Sauté the chopped shallot in 20 g butter, then the mushrooms with salt and pepper. Add the cream and reduce heat to low and add the grated cheese and wine.

Preheat the oven to grill at 210 ° C (gas mark 7). Fry the bread slices in 20 g of butter on both sides. Then spread each slice with the morel and Comté cream, which must be very smooth. Toast the bread in the oven until golden brown. Sprinkle a few chopped chives and serve hot. Suggested Wine: These toasts with the Vin Jaune wine  (pour 8 friends)

Recipe from : www.comte-gourmand.com